Why Your Active Serums May Not Be Working

Ever wonder why you aren't seeing the results you thought you would from that new serum you've been using for a while? Most likely, the good ingredients aren't getting to where they need to be.

Anti-ageing actives such as Retinol or Vitamin C often don’t work like they're supposed to, even though the science behind them is very good. This is because active ingredients aren't always paired with an effective 'delivery system' to get them past the surface layer of the skin.

Water-Soluble vs Oil-Soluble 

Let's take Vitamin C for example. Most forms of Vitamin C are water-soluble, which is great if it's being ingested. But the skin is full of oils and is a protective organ, so it doesn't just let anything in willy-nilly.

So, we use a type of Vitamin C called Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (say that 5 times fast) because it's oil-soluble so it easily gets absorbed into the skin. It's also the most stable form available, which means that by the time it makes it to your face, it'll still work. While it's expensive to use, we think it's worth the extra cost to get something that works.

Unstable Active Ingredients

Another reason active ingredients in your serums may not work is that they can be unstable or become unstable over time. This means they lose their ability to do what they’re supposed to. There was a study a while back that found that most Retinol products have almost no active Retinol left in them after 6 months because Retinol by itself is quite unstable.

To avoid ingredients in serums becoming unstable and useless, we choose the forms of active ingredients that stay stable long-term and are most compatible with the skin. The best analogy for these ingredients is that they're like fast-looking cars with gutless engines, all show, no power.

The Delivery System

Just because something is put onto the surface of the skin doesn’t mean it'll get absorbed. This means many good-quality, expensive ingredients in serums end up sitting on top of the skin, unused until they’re eventually washed off (a lot of money down the drain, literally).

We spend a lot of time making sure the delivery system for active ingredients is effective so they can do the work they're supposed to. This adds some expense to our formulas, of course, but there’s no point in using active ingredients if they aren't going to do anything.

A Few Other Things

Now we'll cover off a few more things to keep in mind...just because.

Greenwashing

Just because an ingredient sounds technologically advanced (like stem cells from Swiss apples), doesn’t mean it's useful or compatible with human skin. It just sounds good and sells lots of products. As you can see, we're very passionate about this topic. And thank you for reading if you've made it this far! Now, let's move on to the super serums we make and how they can work for you.

Price Tags

Just because something has a higher price tag doesn’t necessarily mean it's of higher quality or even works. It might just mean a bigger marketing budget to pay celebrities or fancier packaging. Go figure!

Packaging

Just because your serum comes in fancy, futuristic packaging, doesn’t make it technologically advanced… no matter how shiny the box is. And just because a serum comes in packaging covered in leaves and flowers doesn’t mean it's natural. Sorry, but it's true.

A Guide to MooGoo Active Serums

Amplified Anti-Ageing Serum with Argireline® Amplified Peptide

What is the point of an anti-ageing active if it sits on top of the skin like water on top of oil? Exactly! Up until 2020, that’s exactly what most anti-ageing serums that used peptides would do. So, to overcome this problem the Argireline® Amplified Peptide was developed. What’s the difference? It has a much smaller molecule size and is combined with a Liposome delivery system that will actually penetrate the product into your skin.

If you know us, you know we jump onto the most effective ingredients we can find – and this one is no exception! We’ve spent a long time developing this addition to the MooGoo Face range and are exceptionally pleased with the result. Specifically designed to target fine lines and wrinkles, the Argireline® Amplified Peptide Serum is 50x more potent than regular Argireline® Peptide serums! That’s pretty impressive, right? We even went an extra step and made sure to pair this with a highly effective liposome delivery system which means all this goodness is getting right down into the muscle layers of your face. Now here’s the cherry on top; all of this is manufactured using Green Technology. So now we’re not only addressing (inevitable) damage to your skin but damage on the planet too. Yay!

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Vitamin C) (3%) Brightening Active Serum 25ml

Glowy skin is all the rage these days, but dark spots, sun damage and pigmentation can really rain on that parade. Luckily, achieving beautifully radiant and even-toned skin is no longer just a figment of your imaginative daydreams. We took a deep dive into the science books to get this one just right, not only so it’s creamy and feels dreamy, but also to make sure it does the hard yards to diminish dark spots, peace out pigmentation, and even out skin tone whilst bringing back that brightness.

We use a specialised form of Vitamin C that scientists call Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (AT), but we call it a triple threat. First off, it’s extra stable so it’s fresh and effective when it meets your skin – very important! Unstable forms can oxidise quickly, rendering their good properties null and void, and making it a waste of your hard-earned MOO-lah. AT is also oil-soluble which means it can penetrate deeper and more effectively into the skin. And finally, it’s known to be less irritating than other forms out there. Alright C, you big show off. Being an acclaimed antioxidant, not only does it lighten skin discolouration, but it also fights free radicals that cause skin ageing. AT loves skin so much that it’s been shown to stay in cells 40 to 80 times longer than other forms of Vitamin C and have 4 times the effect!

Bakuchiol (1%) Natural Retinol Substitute Active Serum

Retinol (Vitamin A) has been a fav among skincare aficionados for years now and the hype is real. Retinoids work by prompting surface skin cells to turn over and die, making way for new cell growth. They hamper the breakdown of collagen and thicken deeper layers of skin where wrinkles get their start. That's quite the CV!

However, Retinol can be irritating to the skin and is not recommended for use by pregnant or breastfeeding women. So, we hunted for a natural ingredient that packs an anti-ageing punch without the side effects, and we found Bakuchiol. Clinical studies found that this plant-based alternative is just as effective as, if not more so than Retinol.

Hyaluronic Acid (2%), Niacinamide (10%) Active Serum

Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil (100%)

So, there's good Rosehip Oil and there's bad Rosehip Oil. Good Rosehip Oil is amazing for the skin and full of essential fatty acids, but some Rosehip Oils out there don't stack up. If Rosehip Oil isn't fresh and isn't stored properly, it can quickly become unstable and oxidize, losing all of its beneficial, antioxidant and anti-ageing properties.

Knowing this, we went to great lengths to source the highest-grade, cold-pressed Rosehip Oil we could get our hooves on. Because it's rich in essential fatty acids and has a high concentration of antioxidants, we recommend this for dehydrated and mature skin. Best applied in the evenings underneath your moisturiser for a deep and nourishing beauty sleep. Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.