The Bakuchiol Breakdown - What Is Bakuchiol & How Do You Use It?

What is Bakuchiol and Does It Actually Work?

If you've wandered down the anti-ageing aisle lately, you've probably spotted Bakuchiol. Say it with us: bah-koo-chee-all. It's often called the "plant-based Retinol" and it has a pretty loyal fan club here at MooGoo HQ.

But what is Bakuchiol, where does it come from, and does Bakuchiol work as well as everyone says? Pop the kettle on. We're breaking it all down in plain English so you can decide if it deserves a spot in your routine.

What is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a natural compound extracted from the seeds of Psoralea Corylifolia, better known as the Babchi plant. Babchi is a leafy herb native to India that sprouts clusters of little purple flowers. It has been used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for centuries to support skin that's healing, blotchy or irritated.

Here's the fun bit. Despite its nickname, Bakuchiol isn't related to Retinol or Vitamin A at all. It has a completely different chemical structure. It just seems to nudge your skin in a similar direction, encouraging fresh skin cells and supporting Collagen production.

It also comes with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which help protect skin from everyday stressors and calm redness. That gentle, soothing side is why we chose it for our Bakuchiol Anti-Ageing Active Serum. We make products for sensitive skin first, so an ingredient that works hard without stirring things up was an easy yes.

Bakuchiol vs Retinol: What's the Difference?

To understand why Bakuchiol gets so much love, it helps to know what Retinol does. Your skin is always making fresh cells to replace old ones. This is called cell turnover, and it keeps skin smooth and bright. It slows down as we age, and so does Collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm and bouncy.

Fun fact: From our mid-20s, we lose roughly 1% of our skin's Collagen each year.

Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that speeds cell turnover back up and boosts Collagen. It works, and it has decades of research behind it. The catch is that it can be a bit much for some skin. Redness, flaking, stinging and extra sun sensitivity are common, especially for skin prone to Eczema, Rosacea or Dermatitis. It's also not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Bakuchiol aims for similar results with a softer touch. Here's how they stack up.

MooGoo makes both. If your skin is happy with actives, our Retinol Anti-Ageing Active Serum is a great option. If your skin is sensitive, reactive or you simply want something gentler, Bakuchiol is the easy-going choice. For a deeper dive, read our guide to Retinol vs Bakuchiol.

Does Bakuchiol Work? Here's What the Science Says

We're a little cynical about anti-ageing claims too, so let's look at the research.

The study most people point to was published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019. Researchers gave 44 people either 0.5% Bakuchiol twice a day or 0.5% Retinol once a day for 12 weeks. Both groups saw a real reduction in wrinkles and pigmentation, with no meaningful difference between the two. The Retinol group, though, reported more scaling and stinging. Read the study.

An earlier 2014 study found Bakuchiol switched on many of the same skin genes as Retinol. Over 12 weeks, people using it saw improvements in fine lines, firmness and skin tone. Read the study.

So, does Bakuchiol work? The evidence so far is promising. To keep it honest, these studies are small and more research would be great. Our customers' experience lines up, though. Many tell us their skin feels softer and smoother, and that it's finally an active their sensitive skin is happy with.

Give it time: Like any active, Bakuchiol isn't an overnight fix. Most people notice smoother, brighter skin after 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use.

Bakuchiol Oil vs Bakuchiol Serum: Which Should You Choose?

Pure Bakuchiol is an oil-soluble extract, so you'll often see it sold as "Bakuchiol oil". Most Bakuchiol oil products are simply Bakuchiol mixed into a carrier oil like Squalane or Jojoba.

Quick tip: Bakuchiol oil isn't the same as Babchi seed oil. Whole Babchi oil contains compounds called psoralens, which can make skin more sensitive to the sun. Purified Bakuchiol leaves those behind. Always check the ingredient list says "Bakuchiol".

So which format is better? It comes down to your skin. A Bakuchiol oil sits on top of the skin and can feel rich, which some dry skin types love. It can feel heavy on oily or breakout-prone skin, though, and doesn't always play nicely under makeup or SPF.

We went with a lightweight Bakuchiol Serum to get the best of both. It blends Bakuchiol with nourishing Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter and natural Vitamin E, so you still get that oil-based TLC. It also uses a liposome delivery system, which wraps the Bakuchiol in tiny bubbles to help it stay stable and absorb into the skin. The result sinks in quickly and layers easily, morning or night.

How to Use Bakuchiol in Your Skincare Routine

Good news: Bakuchiol is gentle enough to use every day, even twice a day. There's no slow build-up schedule like you'd need with Retinol. Here's a simple routine.

1. Cleanse. Start with clean skin. Our Creamy Hydrating Face Cleanser removes the day without leaving skin tight or stripped.
2. Apply your Bakuchiol. While skin is still slightly damp, smooth one or two pumps of our Bakuchiol Active Serum over your face and neck. You can pat it around the orbital bone too, just avoid your eyelids.
3. Moisturise. Give the serum a minute to sink in, then lock it in with a moisturiser. Try our Night Restoration Cream in the evening or the Anti-Ageing Skin Renewal Face Cream any time of day.
4. Finish with SPF. Bakuchiol doesn't make skin more sun-sensitive, but daily SPF is still the best anti-ageing step there is. Make it your last step every morning.

New to actives? Patch test on your inner arm or jawline for a couple of days first. If your Eczema, Rosacea or Dermatitis is flaring, wait until skin has settled or check with your dermatologist.

Bakuchiol FAQs

Is Bakuchiol safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding?

Bakuchiol is widely considered a gentler choice than Retinol, which isn't recommended while pregnant or breastfeeding. There aren't any specific studies on Bakuchiol in pregnancy, as with most natural ingredients. We always suggest checking with your GP or midwife and doing what feels right for you. Our blog on whether Retinol is safe during pregnancy has more.

Is Bakuchiol good for sensitive skin?

For most people, yes. Bakuchiol is generally well tolerated and its anti-inflammatory properties can help calm redness. Everyone's skin is different, so a patch test is always a good idea.

Can I use Bakuchiol with Retinol?

Yes, they make a great team. Some people alternate nights, using Retinol a few evenings a week and Bakuchiol on the rest. Others use Bakuchiol in the morning and Retinol at night.

How long does Bakuchiol take to work?

Most people notice softer, smoother skin within a few weeks. Changes to fine lines and skin tone usually show after 8 to 12 weeks of daily use.

Does Bakuchiol oil clog pores?

Pure Bakuchiol isn't known to clog pores, but the carrier oil in a Bakuchiol oil might. If you're breakout-prone, look for non-comedogenic oils like Jojoba, or choose a lightweight serum instead.

The Moo-ral of the Story

Ageing is a natural part of life, and laughter lines are proof of a life well lived. If you'd like a gentle helping hand, Bakuchiol is a lovely place to start. It's plant-based, kind to sensitive skin and backed by promising science.

Ready to give it a go? Try our plant-based Bakuchiol serum, explore the full Anti-Ageing range, or take our Face Skin Quiz to find your perfect routine.